We made it! We are half way ! And what a day!
This was the day of the first half that we were most anxious about in that it was relatively long at 87km, had lots of climb 1400 m and was mostly off road!
First, from an energy perspective we were well prepared. We had a great dinner last night -salad, steak and french fries and dessert – what a TREAT! For breakfast we had stocked up on Yogurt, fruit, and donut type things- I even got some chorizo sausage!
However when we got up it had been raining all night and was still pouring down heavily. We decided that unfortunately we would have to stick to the road.
The route to where one decides on or of road was a couple of km further up hill from the hotel so we headed up in heavy rain. Just before the decision point there was a garage where we stopped for a coffee. When we came out the sky had cleared a little.
The Gods must have made us crazy because we decided we had come here to experience the Camino and had enough riding on the road- we chose the off road !
Wow what an experience!
The rain had eased a little and we took the off road path. A little along the path we came on a very nice mural depicting the Via de la Plata.
Also we were traveling through beautiful countryside which you would never see on the road- we were feeling good about our choice – and then the heavens opened and it rained for the next four hours.
The path varied from a sandy gravel like surface which pooled the water- the bikes kicked up wet sand and we were soaking wet and covered in sand. At one point a mixture of water and sand splashed both my eyes and I had to stop, remove my lenses and rinse the sand off in order to keep going.
St other times the path was muddy. Fortunately for John I was in front when my bike went into a mud hole and stopped. I of course fell sideways into the mud and water- it was a soft but muddy landing.
The going was pretty tough as we had to push our way through soft wet surface that gave little traction which meant pretty slow progress.
Despite all that we were actually glad of our choice. We met very nice walkers, a young French couple and a German man. We saw a beautiful countryside, if a little indistinct.
And we saw some great ‘Camino” art
and some beautiful churches.
We stopped in a tiny village, Valdelacasa, for lunch as it had the only bar in our first few hours. We had the best bacon and cheese sandwich there. While there we heard a band playing and some locals suggested we visit the church across the street. A young priest was setting up for some celebration but it was beautiful.
We also passed old Roman mile markers
And more modern versions
We had a lot of climbing today. One of the toughest was between Fuenterroble and San Pedro de Rozados. It went straight up for a long time and then down again
. In San Pedro we stopped for a coffee and snack before our final stage towards Salamanca. We met another German man staying in the hostel there. We asked a local lady to take our photo.
The final stage towards Salamanca was over wet, sandy trail that seemed to cling to the tire making hill climbs tough. It was halfway along this stage that we were comfortable that we could take off our rain jackets.
The scenery changed here and then we crested a hill and a joy as sight, the cathedral of Salamanca could be seen in the distance.
We were almost there.
It had been a long an tough day, we reached the Cathedral in Salamanca around 5:00 pm, 8 hours after our start but despit everything it had been incredibly enjoyable and we finished with a sense that we had accomplished something today.
Our hotel here is great, literally 5 min walk from the cathedral
We ate quite a sight when we showed up covered from head to toe in sand and mud! We really needed that shower.
To my amazement there was a package deliver for me – what a surprise, a supply of energy balls to sustain us on our ride from my daughter Sorcha in London!
VDLPbyBike 
Well done to both of you and I just love the parcel idea Sorcha had, so typical of her thoughtful self. I am off to Kilballyowen/Rhona tomorrow. It will be such an easy journey, by car! Love to both of you. Kathleen
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Hi Dermot and John, thank you for the fabulous blog tonight. You have done wonderfully well and meeting so many people makes it all more enjoyable I am sure. Enjoy your rest day and Salamanca. Look forward to your next post. Mary
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Terrific blog and photos . That was a tough day. Hope the weather is kinder. Great to be past the halfway. All the best.
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Well done to you both. What a day and how wonderful to have your rest day tomorrow. Though you’ll probably want to get on the bikes! Enjoy!
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Fantastic! Sounds like quite the adventure today! Congratulations on your progress so far – it is just amazing. Again, the photos are great. Did you make it to the top of the sign John? We are all really enjoying the trip. Hope we get an account tomorrow also even though you are not cycling. Have fun tomorrow. Love to you both, Breda
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Hi Breda
We will try to keep you posted this evening!
I will John tell you about the sign!
Love D
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Ciao Dermot! Il regalo di tua figlia e’ stato proprio un pensiero dolce, anche se io in realta’ non so bene cosa siano queste “palle d’energia” LOL…questa sera vi dico: FORZA E CORAGGIO!
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Grazie Sabrina
Credo che la settimana prossima avremmo bisogna della forza e coraggio!
E stato fantastico che ho avuto l’opportunità a parlare in Italiano con la coppia
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Ciao Sabrina
Credo che avremmo bisogna della forza e coraggio la settimana prossima. Entriamo Galicia e le montagne!
Saluti
Dermot
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Wow what a day! amazing photos also, you’ll have great memories of so many difficulties overcome on that ride. Well done Sorcha you are just wonderful you made their day and many of next week also with your brilliant surprise. Cheers to you both and enjoy Salamanca. Ellen
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Well I was dying to get to my computer to see how today went. I was out at a JB Keane’s night at the civic this evening so only getting arount to catching up on today’s events.
My oh my, what a day, congratulations on your achievements so far, I’m delighted you are this far unscathed and even managed a mud bath, great for the skin.
Love the art work you captured and that little church is remarkable. I find that you come accross some of the most beautiful places by pure accident, like the little church and the beautiful landscape you uncovered on your journey.
You are both look great for all your trials and tribulations and I’m glad to see that you can crack a smile John.
I don’t know what I’ll do next week, I’m on holidays in a quaint little hill side village in Spain and I’m not sure I’ll be able to access your blogs.
I hope you rest and feast well this evening and tomorrow, building up your energy levels for the second half of you great journey.
Take Care, maybe you will indulge us with a blog tomorrow and a few more photos.
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Glad to see you’re having a great trip Dermot. 87km off road with all that climbing is very respectable!
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Hi David, good to hear from you. Yes the cycling, countryside, experience is awesome. Dermot
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Congratulations on finishing the first day!!! It sounds like a lot of work, but you also make it sound super fun and exciting!
I am so glad to see that is all going well, and you both look great : )
I hope you will enjoy your break today! Sorcha and I are together now in Stockholm, and will spend the day walking the city (maybe similar to you two!)
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Hi Aisling hope you have a great time.together in Stockholm. The.email item you sent was cool
Love D
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Congratulations on finishing the first half!! It sounds like a lot of work, but you also make it sound super fun and exciting! I am happy to see that everything is going well (even with weather and other complications!) and you both look great!
Sorcha and I are together now in Stockholm, and we will spend the day walking the city (maybe similar to your plans!)
Enjoy your well deserved break!
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I thought I could be classified as a masochist of sorts but your trip, where the fall of the dice has brought bad weather maybe untypical of this time of year in Spain, takes the biscuit. Congratulations on reaching your half way house muddy but on schedule after a punishing week, and thanks for sharing some great pics. from the passing landscape. To quote english romantic poet Taylor Colderidge, “Thou has now thy penance done, and penance more will do”.
Bon Voyage and take care for the rest of your odessey.
Keith
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Thanks Keith. I hope Romania was a success. See you when we get back. John
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Hey’ Dermot. Great that you are actually enjoying the tough going. I think we’ll have to do a little work on the falling off the bike thing when you get back. Enjoy your day in Salamanca. Made it to the farm yesterday, turned out it was 190KM. Ready for anything, now.
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Hey Mark, if you saw the bed of mud I hit even you would have gone down!
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Hi Mark. I hope you recovered from that ride. Did you do the return trip? Am just about to head out on our last leg!
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It sounds and looks like a magical trip. Well done for breezing through the first half & savour the rest. Wear some green & gold tomorrow, Ajay & I will be cheering on Donegal in Croke Park for the All Ireland Final. Faustina’s son Hugh is on the team.
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Hi Adrian, not sure that we breezed through it, the legs were feeling it on those hills and we were a bit slower than expected- mind you we stop often for photos or to say hello to the occasional walker. I think the next half might be a bit more challenging also.
I have to say though that we are having a great time, I think we will remember this trip forever, great fun
Will be thinking of Donegal tomorrow. Had a chat about that with a man from Tipperary, who we met along the way.
All the best, see you soon
Dermot
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Awesome!! Your achievements and positive attitudes truly humble and inspire me. Now I think I’ll have a nap to recover.
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Fantastic achievement in the rain! Great write-up. Salamanca is beautiful, but the next two stages of the route are perhaps a little less exciting than every stage you’ve had up to now! I hope the weather stays good for you both and look forward to reading the rest…
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Hi
It is great to hear from someone who has already coveted the ride
Really appreciate that you have taken the time to comment. When we get back to regular Internet access I will check out your blog
And you were right, today was less thrilling but we had fun
Dermot
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wow Dermot, thank you for sharing this adventure of yours with your brother in law…this is an amazing experience…great pictures and I like seeing that you are wearing your knee brace!!!!!
enjoy the rest of your trip, all is good in MY BASEMENT, my scenery is the same every day!!!!!
keep smiling 🙂
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Hi Janique
Great to hear from you. The body is surviving thanks to your help and advice!
Having an incredible experience.
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